Max Diecast

The rainy days can either be fun or not. When you have your RC car, truck or plane out in the pavement, track or field, the last thing that you need is for the heavens to pour its water over you. But don’t blame the heavens if it rain. For all you know, rain can be a good thing for other people. The point in racing RC cars is that keeping it in good condition at all times, no matter the weather, is a top responsibility by the owner.

Keeping a good performing RC car is not very hard to do. Though it can take most of your time for doing it, if you look at your work in the end, you won’t regret it in any way.

There are several things which you need to check on, and this concerns the wheels because it is in contact to the wet ground. The front spindles should be checked first and if there is any slop on the wheels, clean it out. Checking also the tightness of the wheels after it got wet is important. Check the wheels, shake it and if you think it’s loose, go ahead and pad or shim it then replace if necessary.

As for cleanliness, check the ball stud or also called the ball cup for any excess dirt. This is the part of your RC car that keeps a lot of unnecessary dirt and when it rains, it doesn’t make your cleaning job any easier. Since dust, heat and rain wears this part of your RC car, you might want to check this area regularly and see if it’s needed for replacement.

Since there are parts of your car that are made out of plastic and metal, be concerned with the plastic made parts more. They are prone to easy wear, tear and cracks. Replace any parts that are in this condition. The metal parts are not an exception, do check them as well.

When you check all these, you wouldn’t be worried much of your next race or run outside – even if it rains.

My father likes to collect models as a hobby and I have found some great diecast models at Maxdiecast.com.  This site has a great selection of diecast cars, planes and even some remote controlled vehicles.  I have so many awesome potential gifts to choose from and I have a feeling that they’re going to be from Maxdiecast.com.

When it comes to displaying my diecast models, I like to go all out and build dioramas for them.  Some collectors like to have their models independently displayed, however, I like to put a bit of personality in the way I show mine off.  Building dioramas makes the model collecting experience better, inasmuch as you get to essentially build a home for your diecast vehicles. 

Building a diorama can be time consuming.  It will take a lot of material and imagination, but it’s worth it.  Adding personality to your collection is a very rewarding experience.

If you collect diecast cars, airplanes and other assorted vehicles, then you’ve no doubt spent a significant amount of time and money into tracking down and purchasing these collectables.  As is such, you probably want to take care of these little metal investments.  Here are some easy tips to care for your diecast collection:

1. Use a brush to clean and dust the interior and finer parts of the vehicle.  Using a towel or rag could damage smaller moving parts, using a brush will temper that and get into places that your finger can’t.

2. When cleaning the exterior, use a 100% cotton rag to buff it.  Using a rag that is a rayon blend will scratch the surface of the car.

3. If you want to polish or wax your diecast vehicle, use products that are recommended for clear coats. Abrasives will damage your model.  Also, never directly apply polish or wax to your car, use a rag.

4. Do not use solvents.  Acetone will soften and damage the paint on your models.

I have to say the Dukes of Hazzard is probably my favorite television show of all time, matched in its high-grade intensity only by the A-Team. The memorable horn and tell-tale supercharged engine go hand in hand with the unique banjo twang of the deep south. The colorful culture and one-of-a-kind pursuit of Bo and Luke Duke are American legeneds.

Now I get to own a piece of the legend with die cast cars! Now I’ll never forget where most of my energy as a car-enthusiast comes from. I was really inspired by the acrobatics of the General Lee, able to get 10 or even fifteen feet in the air and continue driving as if it had only gone over a speed bump. Any car designed in the last twenty years would plop onto the ground with an unimpressive thud. But not the General!

I always wanted one of these as a kid but never could get my parents to fork over the cash. The problem there, I think, was this was back in the eighties and remote control airplanes could cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars. Now I can have one for less than a hundred bucks! This small stunt plane is the best deal I’ve found in a toy for a person my age. I guess I could have gotten a real airplane but then I’d have to sell my place in the Hampton’s. Just kidding.

Anyway, the bi-plane is no small feat of engineering, offering superior maneuverability and the versatility to perform a number of tricks and aviation tactics easily. I didn’t even have to spend days building the thing. Right out of the box it’s almost ready to fly requiring only a small amount of assembly. This is a good thing, though, since I got to know a little more about some of the plane’s critical parts. I’d recommend this one to anyone who ever wanted to fly or even just own an RC airplane.

HOT WHEELS 2005 FORD MUSTANG GT 1/18 DIECAST MODEL RED
Diecast Body, Opening Doors, Opening Hood, Opening Trunk, Detailed Interior, Rubber Tires, Steerable Wheels
Perfectly modeled engine, Accurate Gauges and dash inside

Dimensions
L-10 (Approximate)
H-4 (Approximate)
W-6 (Approximate)

Weight: 6 lb

Die casting is the process of forcing molten metal under high pressure into mold cavities (which are machined into dies). Most die castings are made from nonferrous metals, specifically zinc, copper, and aluminum based alloys, but ferrous metal die castings are possible. The die casting method is especially suited for applications where a large quantity of small to medium sized parts are needed with good detail, a fine surface quality and dimensional consistency.

This level of versatility has placed die castings among the highest volume products made in the metalworking industry.

Learn more at MaxDiecast!

Models to die-cast for

James Cockington
January 30, 2008

A few years ago it looked as if die-cast model cars were about to become more expensive than the real thing. Fortunately prices have stabilised since but the amounts enthusiasts will pay for rarities is still astonishing - $1000 is not unusual, especially if the model is still in the original box, preferably unopened.

“Mint, boxed” are the buzz words used by collectors and there are some who will have nothing but in their collections. This is the equivalent of the bibliophile who keeps only first editions, preferably signed by the author. The general rule is that “mint, boxed” is worth twice that of an equivalent model without the box. But in some cases the box can boost its value tenfold.

“It really varies according to the car,” says Giles Moon, head of collectables at Bonhams in Melbourne. “If very few boxes exist for a particular car then it can be worth many times the unboxed example. However, some mint unboxed cars can be closer to the value of the boxed example.”

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The first generation Cevrolet Corvette is most commonly referred by enthusiasts as a “solid-axle”, based on the fact that independent rear suspension (IRS) was not available until 1963. The first generation started in 1953 and ended in 1962.

With limited production due to the fact that they were all hand built and assembled, the 1953 Corvette at 300 is the rarest and most sought after year. With not many changes except for color choices and production numbers, the 1954 is the last 6 cylinder Corvette. In 1955 a milestone was made in Corvette history. It was the introduction of the first V-8 Corvette. With GM almost dropping the underpowered “Blue Flame” in-line 6 Corvette, this was like a new beginning for the car. The easiest way to differentiate the 1955 is the “V” in Corvette is enlarged and gold colored signifying the V-8 engine under the hood..

In 1956 a fresh new body was designed for the car and with more options and a race proven background behind it, the new Corvette was off and running and by now couldn’t be stopped. One noteworthy addition of optional fuel injection in mid-1957 (also available on Chevrolet Bel Air). Fuel injection first saw regular use on a gasoline engine two years prior on the Mercedes-Benz 300SL “gullwing” roadster. Although the Corvette’s GM-Rochester injection used a constant flow system as opposed to the diesel style nozzle metering system of the Mercedes’, it nevertheless produced about 290 hp (216 kW) (gross). The number was listed by Chevrolet’s advertising agency for the 283 hp/283in³ (4.6L) “one hp per cubic inch” slogan, making it one of the first mass-produced engines in history to reach 1 hp/in³. Other early options included power windows (1956), hydraulically operated power convertible top (1956), four speed manual transmission (late 1957), and heavy duty brakes and suspension (1957).

The 1958 Corvette saw another body freshening and more options available. This year had the most exterior chrome and was the heaviest of the C-1s. From it’s quad headlights and hood louvers to it’s twin trunk spars and bumper exiting exhaust, it was the flashiest Corvette ever built. 1959-60 saw little changes except ever decreasing chrome and increasing HP. For 1961 a complete change to the rear of the car was made, with hints of things to come. It had a “boat tail” rear with the first year to have 4 tail lights. In 1962, the GM 283 small block was enlarged to 327 cu in (5.4 L) and produced a maximum of 360 hp (268 kW) making it the fastest of the C-1s and by now almost completely devoid of chrome.

1962 was the last year for many things: Curved windshield, solid rear axle, convertible only, 4 wheel drum brakes, open headlights only brought back for the C-6, A trunk, until 1998